Modern day Melbourne is well known for rooftop bars, and even high class restaurants at the top of tall skyscrapers (I’m looking at you Vue de Monde). So in a recent research expedition, I was somewhat surprised to find that 447 Collins Street once had a rooftop restaurant.
Completed in 1965 as ‘National Mutual Plaza’, the building made it into the new in January 2012, when a granite panel on the northern facade fell 10 storeys to the plaza below.
I first found a reference to the rooftop restaurant in the May 22, 1970 edition of The Age, in an advertisement sitting beside the newspaper masthead.
The name of the restaurant was ‘Top of the Town’ – not to be confused with the current day ‘establishment’ down the seedy end of Flinders Street!
I’m not sure of the exact opening date, but on the eve of Melbourne Cup Day 1964, the brand new restaurant hosted a fundraising dinner dance that was organised by Edith Bolte, wife of then-Premier Henry Bolte.
Top of the Town emphasised the breathtaking views to be found from the restaurant, such as this advertisement in the dining out guide of The Age – dated February 18, 1969.
These photos by Lyle Fowler show the view soon after the completion of the National Mutual Centre in 1965.
Photo by Lyle Fowler, SLV collection. Accession No: H92.20/7649. Image No: a44461
Photo by Lyle Fowler, SLV collection. Accession No: H92.20/7651. Image No: a44463
By the time the 1970s rolled around, the name of the restaurant appears to have changed – this advertisement from the May 9, 1972 edition of The Age features three restaurants at the top of the town – ‘Nip-In’, ‘Boardroom’ and ‘Pamplemousse’ as well as ‘new decor and design’.
This advertisement for an executive chef dated July 17, 1970 has the restaurant still named ‘Top of the Town’.
Eventually the ‘Pamplemousse’ name stuck, as did the Johnny Edwards Trio: I found this advertisement from 9 November 1979, as well as this one from 30 December 1980:
From there the trail dries up: I found a final advertisement dated May 12, 1981 – then a dead end. The Google News archive of The Age itself ends at December 1989, but the absence of evidence is not evidence of absence.
Does anyone out there know when the Pamplemousse restaurant closed?
Footnote
Here is the Google Maps satellite view of the rooftop of 447 Collins Street – there doesn’t seem to be much up there other than air conditioning chiller units and plant rooms. Maybe the restaurant was on the top floor of the office section?
More clues
In March 2012 architectural historian Miles Lewis completed a report on the National Mutual Centre for the City of Melbourne. In it, he cites the following from a contemporary description of the building:
To keep the plaza alive when the office crowds are gone, there will be
out-of-hours use of the theatrette, squash courts, observation deck and roof-top restaurant; and, although a little out of the way for general pedestrian use, the fountain will provide a spectacle worth visiting. …
Architectural historian Peter Andrew Barrett also had this to say in a Facebook post dated June 2014:
Internally the building had squash courts in the roof space (where the signage is), and on the top floor was the upmarket Pamplemousse Restaurant. Diners in the 1960s and 70s at the restaurant could step out on to the balcony after their meals and enjoy the expansive views the building provided.
I wonder if there are any interior photos of the restaurant and rooftop squash courts out there?
Restaurant menu (via Theo K)
Down in the comments section Theo K mentioned they had a copy of the Pamplemousse menu at home – here it is.
I’ve got no photos for you, sadly.
Interesting conclusion in that heritage document. I guess that’s why we’ll no longer have this building (or the plaza). I guess whatever glass box replaces it will be much less likely to shed panels… And have a much higher floor area.
The relevant part:
It raises the question – if you heritage list buildings too easily, eventually the entire city will reach a state of inertia.
My mother often recounts stories of the times and fond memories she has spent working at Top of the Town in the sixties with the live bands.
Yes I always thought it was in some kind of setback floor on the roof, like the top of the old RACV club, but there isnt one ! So mustve been just in the top floor. I vaguely remember being told it was there. Think it became an executive dining room in the 80s.
The RACV Club being the one at 123 Queen Street, built in 1961?
http://nla.gov.au/nla.pic-vn3059672
The RACV headquarters were at 422 Little Collins Street from 1987, with the first Club being at 94 Queen Street from 1925:
http://www.racv.com.au/wps/wcm/connect/racv/Internet/Primary/about+RACV/RACV+history/milestones
Yes the 1961 building. They didnt move until the new Bourke St one opened. that ‘corporate centre’ is an extension to the 1961 building.
As to too much listing equalling inertia, if only 10 commercial buildings in the CBD were listed from each decade, there would still be plenty of room ! Theres already far more than 10 from each decade before 1940 (about 200 altogether, plus precincts) and only 5 from the whole post-war period (not in precincts), and theres an awful lot not worthy of listing, and in any case a listed building isnt frozen in time, its still used and re-used, so inertia is unlikely.
The restaurant was featured in Homicide TV series by Crawford Productions episode 319 ‘From the Top’. Plot concerned a murder witnessed on a neighbouring rooftop. At end close up of TOTT bill is seen. The Crawford Productions DVDs from the 1960s & 1970s feature a plethora of location shots an invaluable resource to see what once was.
Thanks for the tip – a synopsis of the episode is here:
https://www.classicaustraliantv.com/homicideEps301-350.htm
Melbourne had a strict height limit for city buildings of 32 feet of occupied floors set in 1916 which was a replacement for an older code allowing for reinforced concrete or steel framed structures (the older codes assumed load-bearing walls below).
By the 1950’s special exemptions were given starting with the ICI Building (itself outside the CBD grid) tying building height to floor space and light angles. The National Mutual Building and Southern Cross Hotel built in the early-mid 60’s on the former Western and Eastern Markets respectively followed these rules hence the open plazas (or balcony in the case of the hotel) at the front of these buildings
The rules were also known as ‘plot ratio’ planning controls:
http://www.walkingmelbourne.com/period_info2.html?period=Sixties
I can’t contribute anything to the history of the restaurant but I remember my Dad taking me and my brother for dinner when it was Top of Town. I still have the matchbook with our photo on the front taking at the table.
I have a 35mm colour slide of the Yarra River taken from Top of the Town Restaurant in 1967.
I have a souvenir sleeve for autographs/photos from 1970. Enjoyed chateaubriand there. Memorable night. Is there anywhere I can donate this souvenir to.
Hi there! I worked at the Pamplemousse in the late 1970’s early 1980’s as a chef and have many fond memories of the people and times. The restaurant was on the 20th floor if memory serves me right. The Squash courts were actually on the floor above.
The restaurant took up approximately 2/3s of the 20th floor on the east end of the building. The Observation deck surrounded all the dining area up to the kitchen. There were excellent views south of the Yarra.
PS/ I have recollections of a watermelon being dropped from the 20th floor landing on the road in Market Street (stupid!)
and of the total eclipse of the sun over Melbourne (what a sight)
Doug? From pamplemousse? Colleen here. Not sure if you’re the Doug I remember? I worked in the office.
I have a photo of the Pamplemousse menu. How do i attach it
Thanks for the email – photo now included at the bottom of the post.
Hi there Colleen yes it’s me! How are you,its been a very long time.Hope all is well with you. I was hoping someone from the old place would see this site and respond.l’m on Facebook my email shimdjc56 at gmail com
Hi there i waitressed at Pamplemousse in the 70s at lunchtimes and drove the express lift up to 20th floor with guests!! I haven’t got photos. The manager then was Fritz Holler. It wasn’t really a rooftop place, just on the top floor with the narrow balcony part way round for viewing. I recall the artist (name escapes me just now) setting up his Australian paintings for sale outside the restaurant doorway.
regards Robyn
As a very young graduate, I was taken along with my work colleagues to lunch at Pamplemousse in 1972 or 73. I remember the paintings inside as being all representations of girly bits, and on our first visit I thought it was a test to see if any of he newcomers took offence or made a comment. I have no recall of the view or the food, only the paintings. Can Robyn or anyone else comment on them?
Hi there Chris Doug C here,that painting on the wall behind the Bar was actually supposed to have been a cross view of a pampalmousse (grapefruit).You’d be surprised at how many people thought the same as you about being a picture of lady parts
Hello Marcus,
Cleaning out old stuff. Looked up Top of the Town, 447 Collins Street, Melbourne and found your info.
I have a souvenir photo cover from my night out there in 1970.. I recall it was the place to go for a dining experience. Remember – we all had Chateaubriand which was very impressive. Would you like the cover? I could post it to you or perhaps you know someone else who would like it.
Regards,
Carol.
I also have a souvenir photograph of my family dining there in 1969 when the restaurant was still known as Top of the Town.
It was owned by Richard Frank, husband of celebrity hairdresser Lillian Frank. Richard owned Pety Sessions and Quarter Sessions too.
I worked there as a chef in 1976, had a great reputation and good food.
My Father was served a meal at Top of the Town in the 1960’s which was served on a Gold plate, the intention being that the plate was yours to keep. I assume the plate was gold plated, not real gold.This plate was always on display in our lounge room. I would be interested to know more about this plate and the meal served on it.
[…] the home of Melbourne’s first rooftop restaurant, National Mutual was demutualised in 1996 and sold to AXA, with Suncorp Insurance having taken over […]
Hi Marcus,
Very happy i found your post! I went here for dinner with my parents as a youngster in the 70s. i remember the painting of the fruit on the entrance doors and that it was a big deal to go into the city for dinner, all very fancy. Was starting to wonder if i had imagined it, some photos would be good, but the menu is great.
Hi Grandfather designed it – Eric Hughes
Thanks – he was a partner at Godfrey & Spowers, Hughes, Mewton and Lobb:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Godfrey_and_Spowers
As well as president of the Royal Victorian Institute of Architects back in 1952.
https://nla.gov.au/nla.obj-299743065/view?sectionId=nla.obj-312479601&partId=nla.obj-299764356#page/n19/mode/1up